1 ounce dried porcini mushrooms, about 1 cup
2 cups chicken stock, or half-n-half chicken and beef stock
3 tablespoons olive oil, 3 turns of the pan
8 pieces skin-on, bone-in chicken, I use a mix of breast and thigh
Salt and pepper
1/4 pound meaty pancetta, chopped
1 carrot, chopped
2 celery with leafy tops, chopped
1 large onion, chopped
1 small leek, quartered lengthwise and chopped
4 large cloves garlic, crushed and chopped
1 scant tablespoon red chili paste, or 1 fresh red chili, finely chopped, or 1 ½ teaspoons chili flakes
1 generous bundle rosemary and thyme, tied with kitchen string (a small handful of each)
2 large fresh bay leaves
1 teaspoon juniper, 1/3 palmful (optional)
4 tablespoons sundried tomato paste, or tomato paste
1 cup red wine
One 28-ounce can San Marzano tomatoes or canned tomatoes
One 24-ounce jar passata or tomato puree, 3 cups
1 pound rigatoni, pici, bucatini or pappardelle pasta
Pecorino cheese, to toss and to serve
Chopped parsley, to serve
Place rack at center oven and preheat to 350˚F.
In a small pot over medium heat, simmer the dried mushrooms and the stock to reconstitute the mushrooms and flavor the stock.
In a large Dutch oven with a lid, heat 3 tablespoons oil, 3 turns of the pan. Add 4 pieces of chicken at a time, patted dry and seasoned with salt and pepper. Brown chicken skin-side down, then turn, browning each batch about 8 minutes. Remove and drain off excess fat, leaving an even layer about equal to the original layer but now it will be a mix of chicken fat and olive oil. Add the pancetta and stir 2 minutes, then add the carrot, celery, onion, leek, garlic, chili paste or chilies, herb bundle and bay, cook to soften 8 minutes more, add in juniper and then tomato paste, stir a minute, add wine, add tomatoes and break them up, add passata and the mushrooms and stock, stir to combine, then nest the chicken carefully into the pot, bring to a boil, cover and place in oven for 1 hour.
Bring a large pot of water to a boil for pasta the last 10-15 minutes of the chicken’s roasting time.
When the chicken comes out, transfer the meat to a platter and cover with a little foil. Remove the herb bundle and bay from the sauce and keep at a simmer, whisking to thicken and combine.
Salt boiling water and cook pasta 1-2 minutes shy of package directions, reserving a cup of the cooking water just before draining. Combine pasta with half the sauce, cooking water, about 1 cup of cheese, adding more sauce to liking.
Serve chicken topped with a bit more sauce alongside pasta with a sprinkle of parsley, and pass more cheese at table.