About 4 tbsp. olive oil
1 lb. portobello mushroom caps, stemmed and gilled, or oyster mushrooms, cut into bite-size strips
½ tsp. smoked paprika or ground cumin
Salt and pepper
6 cloves garlic or 1 bulb green garlic, very thinly sliced or chopped
About 1 cup white wine
1 lb. farro spaghetti or whole-wheat spaghetti
6 large egg yolks
½ cup each grated Parmigiano-Reggiano and Pecorino-Romano, plus more for passing at the table
½ cup fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves, chopped
¼ cup fresh chives, finely chopped
Bring a large pot of water to a boil for the pasta.
In a large skillet, heat the oil, about four turns of the pan, over medium-high. Add the mushrooms. Cook, stirring occasionally, until browned, 8 to 10 minutes. Season with the smoked paprika, salt, and pepper. Add the garlic. Reduce heat to medium. Cook, stirring often, until fragrant, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the wine. Cook, stirring often, until the liquid is absorbed, about 2 minutes. Reduce heat to low.
Salt the boiling water and add the pasta. Cook until 1 to 2 minutes shy of the package directions. Reserve about 1 cup of the pasta cooking water before draining.
In a medium bowl, beat the egg yolks and 1/2 cup of each cheese. Gradually whisk in the hot pasta water. Mix the pasta and egg mixture into the mushrooms. Remove from heat. Toss until the pasta is coated, 1 to 2 minutes. Mix in the herbs; season. Serve with more cheese.