5 tbsp. high-temperature cooking oil (such as peanut, canola, or safflower oil)
1 cup long-grain white rice
Salt and pepper
1 ½ cups chicken stock
½ lb. maitake or hen of the woods mushrooms, pulled into long, thin pieces; or shiitake mushroom caps, thinly sliced
2 leeks, quartered lengthwise and sliced into 1/4- to 1/2-inch pieces
2 stalks celery with leafy tops, chopped
2 red or green finger chiles, chopped
4 cloves garlic, sliced or chopped
About 1/2 cup Shaoxing wine (Chinese rice wine), dry sherry, or dry vermouth
3 tbsp. butter
2 cups chopped leftover chicken or pork
2 tbsp. soy sauce or shoyu (Japanese soy sauce)
2 large eggs, beaten
½ cup thinly sliced shiso leaves or fresh cilantro tops
Line a baking sheet with foil and place in the freezer.
In a saucepan, heat 1 tbsp. oil, one turn of the pan, over medium-high. Add the rice. Stir until toasted, about 1 minute; season with salt and pepper. Add the stock. Bring to a boil. Cover and reduce heat to medium-low. Cook until the rice is tender, about 15 minutes. Spread the rice out on the chilled baking sheet to cool quickly.
In a large nonstick skillet or wok, heat the remaining 4 tbsp. oil, four turns of the pan, over high. Add the mushrooms. Cook, stirring often, until browned, 4 to 5 minutes. Add the leeks, celery, chiles, and garlic. Stir-fry until soft, 2 to 4 minutes. Add the rice. Toss until heated through, about 3 minutes. Add the wine. Scoot the rice to sides of the pan. Melt the butter in the center of the pan. Add the chicken. Stir until hot, about 1 minute. Add the soy sauce. Slowly pour in the eggs. Cook, stirring to coat the rice evenly without scrambling the eggs, for 1 to 2 minutes. Remove from heat. Mix in the shiso. Season with salt.