3 tbsp. EVOO
⅓ lb. meaty bacon or meaty smoked pancetta, finely chopped
4 cloves garlic, chopped or sliced
1 cup chopped ramps (whites finely chopped; greens cut into 1-inch pieces), or 1 leek, halved lengthwise, then thinly sliced crosswise
½ cup dry white wine
1 cup shelled fresh peas
1 lb. spaghetti or bucatini
5 egg yolks
3 tbsp. freshly grated horseradish root, plus more for serving
1 tbsp. grainy mustard
2 tsp. lemon zest, plus more for garnish
1 cup each (lightly packed) Parmigiano-Reggiano and Pecorino Romano, plus more for serving
1 cup (combined) pea shoots and shaved baby radishes, for serving
Bring a large pot of water to a boil for the pasta.
Meanwhile, heat a large skillet over medium to medium-high heat. Add the EVOO, three turns of the pan. Add the bacon and cook until the fat renders, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the garlic and ramp whites; toss until softened, about 2 minutes. Add the wine and peas; cook until the peas are warm and the wine is mostly absorbed. Reduce the heat to low to keep the sauce warm.
Salt the water, add the pasta, and cook 1 minute less than package directions. Reserve 1 cup of cooking water, then drain the pasta. Toss the pasta with the sauce and ramp greens.
In a medium bowl, whisk the yolks, horseradish, mustard, 2 tsp. lemon zest, and 1 cup of each of the cheeses. Slowly whisk in 1/2 cup hot pasta cooking water to temper the eggs. Add the egg mixture to the pasta. Off heat, toss until the pasta is coated, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the remaining 1/2 cup of pasta water, if needed, tossing to coat. Transfer the pasta to a large serving bowl.
Top with the pea shoots, radishes, and more lemon zest. Pass more grated horseradish and cheese at the table for topping.