5 dried chiles, mild to moderate heat level, such as guajillo, ancho, pasilla, New Mexican and/or mulato
1 32-ounce container (4 cups) beef stock
2 tablespoons olive or vegetable oil
1 2 1/2-pound beef chuck roast (about 1 1/2-inches thick)
Salt and pepper
1 large or 2 medium onions, chopped
6 cloves garlic, sliced or chopped
1 tablespoon (a scant palmful) ground coriander
1 tablespoon (a scant palmful) ground cumin
2 teaspoons instant espresso powder
1 teaspoon dried Mexican oregano
1/2 teaspoon ground allspice
1 12-ounce bottle light beer, such as Corona
1 rounded tablespoon light or dark brown sugar
1 tablespoon cayenne red pepper sauce, preferably Frank’s Redhot
1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
1 15- to 15.5-ounce can kidney beans, rinsed
8 soft white sandwich or hamburger rolls, toasted
Sliced bread-and-butter pickles and chopped raw white onion, for topping
Stem and seed the chiles; transfer to a large saucepan. Add the stock; bring to a low, rolling boil over medium heat. Cook until the chiles soften and the stock is infused, 30-45 minutes. Working in batches, purée chiles and stock in a food processor to make the chili sauce. Reserve.
Position a rack in the center of the oven; preheat to 325°F.
In a large Dutch oven, heat the oil over medium-high. Season the beef with salt and pepper. When the oil smokes, add the beef and cook until well-browned, about 4 minutes per side; transfer to a plate. Add the onion, garlic, coriander, cumin, espresso powder, oregano and allspice to the pot; season and stir until the onions soften, just a few minutes. Add the beer and cook, stirring occasionally, until the liquid is reduced by about one-third, 8-10 minutes. Add the chile sauce, brown sugar, red pepper sauce and Worcestershire. Add the beef to the pot; cover and transfer to the oven. Cook until the meat is very tender, about 2 1/2 hours.
Place the pot on the stovetop; transfer the beef to a plate. Skim the fat from the juices in the pot. Using two forks, shred the meat and return it to the pot. Mix in the beans; season, and cook until the beats are heated through, a minute or two.
Divide the beef mixture among the roll bottoms, then top with some pickles, chopped onion and the roll tops.