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Gargagnelli with Morels
½ lb. fresh morel mushrooms, quickly soaked in cold water twice and patted dry; or 1/2 lb. frozen, thawed and patted dry; or 1/2 oz. dried, soaked in very hot water for 20 minutes
2 tbsp. olive oil
2 tbsp. butter
2 shallots, finely chopped
3 cloves garlic, chopped
Salt and pepper
About 1/4 cup Marsala or sherry
1 cup heavy cream
About 1/4 cup fresh tarragon leaves, chopped
About 3/4 cup shelled fresh peas or frozen peas, thawed
1 pound garganelli or penne pasta
1 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
Juice of 1/2 lemon (about 2 tbsp.)
About 1 cup (loosely packed) pea shoots, pea tendrils, or other microgreens
Bring a large pot of water to a boil for the pasta.
Quarter the morels lengthwise and remove any bits of grit.
In a large skillet, heat the oil, two turns of the pan, over medium to medium-high. Melt the butter into the oil. Add the mushrooms; cook, stirring often, until browned, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the shallots and garlic; season with salt and pepper. Toss until the shallots soften, 3 to 4 minutes more. Add the Marsala; cook, stirring often, until absorbed, about 3 minutes. Add the cream and tarragon. Bring to a bubble. Reduce heat to medium. Add the peas. Simmer until the sauce is slightly reduced, 3 to 4 minutes.
Salt the boiling water and add the pasta. Cook until 1 minute shy of the package directions. Scoop out about half a cup of the starchy cooking water, then drain the pasta. Mix the pasta, cooking water, Parm, and lemon juice into the sauce; season. Top with the pea shoots.